Van Trip

Kitchen Friends held its first Van gastronomy and culture tour last week. The group had the opportunity to explore the historical, geographical, and gastronomic riches of the Van region—the cradle of civilizations—which span a vast area from Lake Van to the Nemrut crater lake and on to Ahlat, during a comprehensive 4-day trip, and were introduced to incredible gastronomic treasures. Due to the prevalence of livestock farming in Van, which is located at a high altitude, milk and dairy products take center stage; and the rich Van breakfast—featuring herb-flavored cheese, clotted cream, honey, murtuğa, butter, cacık, kavut, as well as rose jam, ilitme, and çörek—was enjoyed. The region’s unique herb culture, stemming from its abundance of diverse herbs, leaves its mark not only on its geographically indicated cheese but also on the entire culinary tradition, from pilafs to meat dishes. We received valuable information about the pearl mullet, which lives in the soda-rich waters of Lake Van, from Professor Elvan Ocak, a distinguished faculty member at Yüzüncü Yıl University. The fish, which can be enjoyed fresh and fried in season, is typically preserved in salt these days due to the fishing ban in effect during the spawning season. We tasted the region’s Erciş Karası wine from Yaban Kolektif and participated in a workshop where we learned about the differences between Van-style and Hakkari-style Kurdish meatballs. Following a feast of Van-style breakfast and rice pudding at Metin Usta, we enjoyed a lunch at Kuşhane where we got to know the Van table in all its aspects and couldn’t get enough of the flavors, followed by meals featuring a wide variety of meats at Adem Şef and an elegant dinner at Menua restaurant in Tariria, which brings a fresh new vibe to Van. At Kuşhane, everything is cooked over a wood fire, slow-cooked to perfection. The use of herbs was a true testament to masterful craftsmanship, and we sampled many regional dishes such as zeyturin soup, stuffed dried eggplant with meat and tomatoes, meat-stuffed keşkek helise, and lamb stir-fry over bulgur with gari herbs. Tariria is a meticulously crafted venue, from its lakeside gardens—which offer stunning sunset views—to its bar cocktails and wine list. At the Menua restaurant within the venue, we were treated to a special menu featuring highly original flavors—such as herb-and-cheese-stuffed pide and Van fish carpaccio—served by an exceptional team. “Friends of the Kitchen,” pioneers of culinary tourism in Turkey, returned to Istanbul with the satisfaction of having explored—and helped others discover—yet another region under the leadership of our valued guide, Müjde Tönbekici, and with the decision to visit Van again.